Once you understand the basics, learning how to grow flowers is relatively easy, especially if you decide to transplant. This section shares the flower gardening advice that you need to know, including…
Your aesthetic preferences will be a big part of choosing the kinds of flowers you’ll grow, but before you go pickin’ the prettiest flowers, consider the following…
Speaking of your growing space, take the time to review and implement the strategies discussed on our Starting a Garden page before going any further, especially if you plan to plant your flowers in beds.
You can always mix and match for a “best of both worlds” approach, but there’s another option as well… plant a variety of perennials that bloom at different times.
Herbaceous perennials’ stems die down to the ground each year, while woody perennials’ stems survive the winter and continue to get larger each year as they grow back. Most garden flowers are herbaceous perennials.
Perennial flowers grow and flower for at least three years, often much longer, while the much shorter-lived annual flowers grow, produce flowers and die in a single year.
Annuals can be started from seed or transplanted from pre-grown plants, while perennials can be started from seed, transplanted or propagated from existing flowers’ root divisions.
For instructions about how to grow flowers using each planting type, choose one of the following…
Overwatering is one of the main reasons that flower gardeners fail.
Keeping your plants consistently moist should be your goal, but it’s better to deliver a thorough watering once per week than to water lightly every day. Flowers require about one inch (2.5 cm) of water per week either from rainfall or irrigation.
During weeks with less than one inch of rain, water in the morning to allow enough time for it to be absorbed or evaporate before moisture-loving disease organisms have a chance to take hold.
If your flowers’ leaves begin to sag or they start to lose their blossoms, you’re probably not watering enough.
See Garden Watering Guidelines for more information and recommended tools.
Some perennials grow tall and bulky to the point that their stems cannot support their weight. For these plants, you’ll need to set up some kind of support to prevent them from falling over.
Supports come in several styles, including:


Pruning your annual and perennial plants serves several important purposes:
Pruning is accomplished with one of a few methods: deadheading, thinning, pinching and cutting back…
Removing dead or dying flowers, also called “deadheading”, is beneficial for the growth of additional blooms and the overall rigor of the plant. Not only do dead and dying flowers look unattractive, but they will eventually go to seed which directs much of your plant’s available energy away from the plant’s growth and flower production.
When deadheading, use a good pruner to prune the flower’s stem all the way back to the stem of a branching flower or new flower bud.
Thinning is the practice of removing plant stems. In addition to aesthetic reasons, thinning is done to redirect the available nutrients, water and energy into the remaining stems for better growth and pest and disease prevention. To thin your plants, cut back one out of every three stems all the way to the ground.
Most flowers will also do better with a periodic “pinching”, which is the removal of the top couple of inches from the growing stem using your fingernails. The first pinching should occur when the plant is old enough to have three or four leaves left below the pinch, even if that means removing some flowers (if you purchase started flowers for transplanting, find out if they have already been pinched). Future pinchings depend on your goals: the more often you pinch, the bushier and “branchier” your plant will become.
At the end of the growing season, annuals can be removed from the ground entirely and added to your compost pile. When your perennials start to die, cut the stems back to about 4 inches (10 cm) above the soil to get them ready for winter.
Interested in learning the natural process of flower growth? Review our How Do Flowers Grow page.
All garden plants share a number of maintenance requirements, each of which will contribute equally to the overall health of your garden…
Click the first letter of your flower's common name to jump down the page or scroll down to review our entire guide...
| A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M |
| N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z |
Know of a common flower that should be added to our guide? Please let us know!
| Anemones | |
| Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) | |
| Camellias (Camellia Japonica) | |
| Carnations (Dianthus) | |
| Chrysanthemums (Ajania/ Dendranthema/Leucanthemum) | |
| Daffodils (Narcissus) | |
| Dahlias | |
| Gardenias | |
| Geraniums (Geranium / Pelargonium) | |
| Gerber Daisies (Gerbera) | |
| Goldenrods (Solidago species) | |
| Click here to return to the top of the How to Grow Flowers Guide | |
| Hibiscus | |
| Hostas | |
| Hyacinths | |
| Hydrangeas | |
| Impatiens | |
| Irises | |
| Click here to return to the top of the How to Grow Flowers Guide | |
| Jasmine (Jasminum) | |
| Lilacs (Syringa) | |
| Marigolds (Calendula or Tagetes) | |
| Morning Glories (Ipomoea) | |
| Orchids (orchis) | |
| Pansies (Viola) | |
| Petunias | |
| Phlox | |
| Poppies (Papaver) | |
Roses (Rosa) |
|
Sunflowers (Helianthus) |
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| Sweet Peas (Lathyrus Odoratus) | |
| Tulips (Tulipa) | |
| Water Lilies (Nymphaea) | |
| Zinnias | |
| More coming soon | |
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Flowers photo is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic license.
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